The Perfect 3 Day French Riviera Itinerary

Day One - Visiting Monaco And Monte Carlo

First stop of the day - Monaco Castle

We took the 30-minute train journey from Nice to Monaco for our first morning's activities on the French Riviera.

We arrived in Monaco on time to watch the royal guards changing at 11.55 am.

Once we left the Monaco train station, we climbed the steep hill to the Prince's Palace to watch the ceremony.

Watch the Changing of the Guards

Monaco's changing of the Royal Guard occurs daily at 11.55 am and is a great tradition to experience.

We have witnessed the changing of the guards outside Buckingham Palace in London and Prague Castle in the Czech Republic, and thought it would be a good idea to see it in Monaco. After all, who doesn't love a bit of pomp and ceremony?

The ceremony is held in Palace Square, home to Monaco's rulers for 700 years, and is a ritual that has remained the same for several centuries. On each side of the Palace, you will see strategically placed canons dating back to the 17th century.

Tours of Monaco's Royal Palace are available, although if you are on a day trip, it will eat into your time.

Lunch in Monaco like a local

Near the Palace, narrow alleyways are lined with pastel-coloured buildings housing restaurants and shops; however, the prices make your eyes water.

Take my tip: buy a typical French Croque Monsieur or a baguette with fruit from one of the food stalls near the Palace, then head to Jardin St. Martin.

The garden is laid out in a series of pathways on the southwest face of the Rock of Monaco; we found a bench overlooking the harbour and ate lunch there; it was a fabulous complimentary view of the harbour and, of course, the megayachts!

Go inside Monaco Cathedral - the burial place of the Royals

Monaco Cathedral, also known as St Nicholas Cathedral, is near the gardens. It was erected in 1875 on the site of Monaco's first parish church, dating back to 1252.

It is the final resting place of the Grimaldi Royal family, most recently Princess Grace Kelly and King Rainier III.

The Cathedral is beautiful both inside and out and is a Monaco landmark. It is one of Monaco's must-see attractions when in town. Entry is free to all, with donations accepted.

After visiting the Cathedral, we wandered through the gardens, admiring the flowers, views of the sea, and the many statues and artworks placed within the foliage.

Watching the Grand Prix on television will be even more exciting now that we've been to Monaco.

Stroll along Monaco's Promenade

Monaco's main promenade wraps around the harbour, which showcases the luxury boats and superyachts for which Monaco is famous.

Monaco has the most millionaires per head in Europe, so you can understand why so many yachts are in the harbour. Monaco is often labelled a tourist destination for the rich, but it can also be enjoyed on a budget, so don't be put off visiting.

Try your luck at the Monte Carlo Casino

A visit to the Monte Carlo casino is one of the best things to do in Monaco for fun.

Constructed in 1863, the casino's decadent architecture is characterised by Art Nouveau elements, including stained glass, sculptures, and a gold-and-marble atrium.  

Visitors can gamble in the slot machine area, with a minimum bet of €1, or in the more private 'tables' area, which requires a higher stake. We bet on the slots for fun and came away only a few euros out of pocket.

Casual attire is accepted, so don't be put off if you have been sightseeing all day and think you aren't dressed up enough for entry. On our afternoon visit, the door attendants didn't seem to care that we wore trainers and shorts. I guess the more spenders they have through their doors, the better!

As expected, luxury supercars lined the road outside the casino, including Rolls-Royce, Ferrari, and Lamborghini vehicles, all vying for the most attention from the public. It's a hectic area, and we half-expected to run into James Bond!

On completion, it was named "Le Promenade des Anglais", translated as "English Walk", and stretches as far as the eye can see, with the ocean on one side and hotels and restaurants lining the other.

Have a stroll around the local street markets

If you enjoy markets, one runs daily in Cours Selaya, selling flowers and local produce.

On Mondays, it becomes an antique market; in summer evenings, there is also an arts-and-crafts market.

It might be tacky, but get a photo by the iconic I Love Nice sign

Stop by the "I LOVE NICE" sign before heading to Castle Hill. Take a photo and enjoy the view out to sea.

Next - make your way up the steep stairs to Castle Hill

We felt slightly deflated as we looked up at the number of stairs we had to climb. It was a hot day, and we could see people stopping to catch their breath on the way up.

We spotted a door shutter in the rock's corner near the Hotel Suisse. Upon inspection, we found it to be a free elevator that took us to the top. With spirits raised, we boarded and were soon on Castle Hill, admiring the views over the town.

Enjoy stunning views from the top of Castle Hill

Colline du Chateau (Castle Hill) was the city's original site, but the castle is no longer at the top. In 1706, the soldiers of King Louis XIV of France entirely dismantled the citadel.

Even without it, the hill offers unparalleled views across the city to the sea and is a quiet place to spend a few hours. Enjoy wandering along the pathways and stop for a snack at the café during high season.

Views over the harbour are impressive. The French Riviera epitomises wealth and glamour, and you can spot luxury yachts all around.

We imagined what it must be like to own one and vowed to buy a lottery ticket once we got home.

Stroll around Nice Cemetery

Named one of the most beautiful cemeteries in France, Cimetière du Château is a serene place to wander around and pay your respects to those who have passed.

While it's not everyone's choice of destination while on the French Riviera, I love the serenity of a cemetery and find reading epitaphs and seeing how far back they date to be interesting.

The oldest tombs are spectacular and feature some of the finest funerary monuments in Europe.

In 1783, a Christian cemetery was created in place of Nice's old citadel after new laws prohibited burials inside churches.

A Jewish cemetery was established adjacent to the Christian one, replacing the one in central Nice that had been used since the Middle Ages.

There is also an area for non-Catholics, created in 1845.

Don't miss the historic part of Nice

Leave the cemetery and follow the pathway down to the old town, where you will find colourful houses lining cobbled streets, restaurants and, for some unknown reason, many ice cream shops!

Place Rosetti, the central square, is overlooked by Nice Cathedral, known as Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate. It dates back to 1699 and was constructed in the Baroque style, featuring a high altar and numerous side chapels dedicated to various saints.

Stop for a break and something to eat in Nice

A host of pizza and pasta restaurants lined the streets, but we wanted something more traditional. Even with Google's assistance, it was a struggle to find anything not aimed at mass tourism!

We finally found a tapas bar in one of the converted fishermen's buildings lining the area around Cours Saleya. The tapas were great, and we followed them with a giant macaroon filled with ice cream for dessert.

See the pastel-coloured facade of the 19th-century Opera de Nice

At the end of our day in Nice, we passed by to admire the Opera House. It is a magnificent building dating back to 1885 and hosts operas, ballets and classical concerts.

In 1776, a privately owned wooden theatre occupied this site. However, in 1826, the city of Nice purchased it and embarked on rebuilding a brand-new theatre. A fire raised it to the ground in 1881, claiming 200 lives, after which the present Opera House took its place.

A monument to those who were lost is in the Cimetière du Château, which we had visited earlier in the day.

See a modern part of Nice at Place Massena

We discovered Place Massena, the city's focal point in Nice's newer part. Its centrepiece is a beautiful fountain, Fontaine du Soleil (Fountain of the Sun).

Of course, the pirates are no longer there, and over the centuries, it has become a quaint and attractive place to live and work. But could it live up to my grand expectations?

My plan to arrive early in the morning had worked as I had the place to myself rather than having to share it with other visitors. Arriving at 10.30 am, I wandered up the steep ramparts and entered the labyrinth of cobbled alleyways, only accessible on foot.

Wrought-iron street lamps, pastel shutters, and flowering trees made everywhere feel magical, and I could imagine what living here must have been like all those centuries ago.

The church of Eze, built in the 18th century, stands proudly amongst the narrow pathways. Although it's a relatively new structure compared to others in the village, it is a focal point for the community.

Admire the artisan craft shops

It has a calming atmosphere and numerous nooks and crannies to explore.

Turn a corner and find one of the many small galleries displaying original artworks. Enter through an archway and find an artisan shop selling unique creations.

Head up steep stone steps and arrive at a cafe covered with rambling bougainvillaea. There is no end to Eze's beauty, and the charm and tiny wooden doors leave you wondering who lives inside.

Courtyards offer the serenity to sit, gather your thoughts and absorb your surroundings.

Experience the natural beauty of Le Jardin Exotique

Le Jardin Exotique is at the top of the village, with coastline views of Cap de Ferrat. It is one of the most beautiful gardens in Europe.

The garden has a small entrance fee to see Mediterranean cacti, fruit trees, other tropical plants, and various local species.

Sculptures along the pathways draw your eye away from the glorious views long enough to appreciate them, then return your gaze to the mesmerising panorama.

Stop for refreshments at the Chateau Eza Hotel

Before I left Eze, I stopped for a drink at the five-star hotel Chateau Eza; I had been told that the view from the balcony of the French Riviera was spectacular, and how right that advice had been.

I relaxed with a glass of chilled wine and absorbed all the history around us. If the walls could talk, they would have a story to tell.

Of course, enjoying a setting like that does not come cheaply, but guess what? I didn't care because it was an experience worth the expense.

I would love to stay at the Chateau Eza Hotel one day, with its unbeatable view of the French Riviera from its balconies and magnificent restaurant and have it on my bucket list. One can dream!

When it was time for me to leave Eze, I was genuinely sad, and I could have happily wandered around the village again, as I am sure I would have seen something I had missed the first time.

Everything I had read about Eze's uniqueness was true, and on a sunny day in March, I couldn't have imagined being anywhere else.

Getting to Eze

I caught a train from Nice to Eze-sur-Mer station, which is a 15-minute journey. When I came out of the station, the bus stop was steps away, and I hopped on the 82 bus, which whisked me up to the village.

Another option is to take the 82 or 112 bus from Nice to the village. Remember that although the views will be breathtaking, the bus will take longer than the train. The 82 bus runs on a reduced schedule on public holidays and weekends.

At the village's base, there are restaurants and a tourist information centre, and a visit to the Fragonard Perfume Shop was delightful. I returned home with a bottle of "Pivoine" peony scent as a memory of my visit to Eze.

The sloped walk from the car park is uneven and slippery, as is much of Eze, so wear flat, grippy shoes to prevent accidents.

Combined tickets from either property are available for the Jardin Exotique and Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.

Visiting Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

If you are interested in visiting Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild after visiting Èze, the easiest option is to call an Uber from Èze. Otherwise, it can be challenging to reach, and you'll need to take several buses.

This beautiful villa was constructed between 1905 and 1912 for Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild following her divorce from Baron Maurice Ephrussi in 1904. It took seven years to complete due to Beatrice's ever-changing demands for how it should look.

Maurice Ephrussi, 15 years her senior, gambled away his wealth and passed an illness on to the Baroness.

This illness prevented her from conceiving, and in 1904, a year before the villa's construction, they divorced. When her father, a member of the Rothschild banking dynasty, died in 1905, he left her his fortune, which enabled her to begin constructing the villa.

Beatrice created a private zoo in the gardens, housing exotic animals. She used the villa until the 1930s, after which she bequeathed it to the Institute of France as a museum of fine art.

Today, the villa exudes a happy, carefree vibe with its pink-and-white façade, ponds, fountains, and well-kept gardens. Pathways meander around the property, allowing 360-degree views of the coastline.

Inspired by Beatrice's travels, nine different gardens bring colour and interest to the garden. The plantings range from flowers to cacti, palm trees, and grasses.

See the dancing fountains and manicured gardens 

A highlight of the visit is to see the magical water fountains in the French garden come alive.

Every twenty minutes, they dance to classical music, and the backdrop of the pastel-pink villa almost makes you want to twirl your way around the gardens.

It is such a pretty and photogenic place to visit that you won't want to leave. The classical temple at the top of the French garden makes an enchanting point from which to view the Villa Ephrussi.

Before you look around the villa, you can enjoy lunch and refreshments in Béatrice Ephrussi de Rothschild's dining room.

The delicious food and the unrestricted view of the Bay of Villefranche are fabulous. If you are lucky enough to get an inside window seat, you will be the envy of all. In the summer months, enjoy refreshments on the terrace underneath the orange trees.

Inside the villa, you can admire the artwork, including furniture, tapestries, and porcelain, that the Baroness collected over her lifetime.

Wander through her private quarters and imagine what it would have been like to live there.

Head to the upstairs balcony, look out over the gardens and water features and take away memories of your visit to the beautiful Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.

Helpful Information for visiting Villa Ephrussi

Opening hours of Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

Gardens are open 365 days a year.

The daily opening times are from 10 am. Closing time is 6 pm, except during the long summer months of July and August, when it is 7 pm.

In the winter months of November through January, it opens for shorter hours, 2 pm to 6 pm.

The tea rooms are open from 2 pm to 6 pm, Monday to Friday, and from 11 am to 5:30 pm on weekends and bank holidays.

The last admission is 30 minutes before closing time.

Getting to Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

It is located 10 kilometres from Nice and Monaco.

By Train: The nearest station is Beaulieu-sur-Mer, after which a taxi would be the easiest option.

By Car: The property has a car park, and road access is via the lower cliff road.

If arriving from the hillside village of Eze, a taxi would be advisable, as public transport makes the route complicated.

Exploring Villefranche Harbour

From Villa Ephrussi, we called an Uber, which dropped us at the working port in Villefranche.

We didn't realise there were two ports, and they were near each other.

Being dropped off at the wrong port didn't cause a problem, as it is only a short walk around the sea's edge to the seaside town of Villefranche, with its waterside restaurants and colourful buildings.

We sat by the water, ordered crepes and coffee, and watched the small fishing boats bobbing up and down on the water.

Villefranche has a beach, but as we travelled in March, the weather wasn't warm enough for us to use it.

The summer months are very different, with locals and tourists spilling onto the beaches of the French Riviera.

The train station at Villefranche, which takes you back to Nice or continues to Monaco, is located just above the beach.

My honest opinion of the French Riviera

What month did I travel? March

How was the weather? It was sunny and pleasantly warm.

Would I recommend the hotel? Yes. La Villa Victor Hugo was a perfect base in Nice for all the places we wanted to visit.  

It is a boutique hotel with a quirky interior. The hotel staff were friendly, and our room was a decent size with an all-important comfortable bed. The breakfast was good.