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Visiting Český Krumlov from Prague: Much More Than Just A Day Trip

Visiting Český Krumlov from Prague: Much More Than Just A Day Trip

Český Krumlov could have been plucked right out of a fairytale, with its multi-coloured Rapunzel-like tower, pink church spire, winding river, medieval houses and magical stone castle, so you will need to spend at least one night in Český Krumlov if you want to fully experience the magic of this medieval South Bohemian town in all its glory.

While many visitors arrive on a day trip from Prague, time in town will be limited, and once here, it’s easy to see why you will want to stay for longer than a few hours in this beautiful Czech town.

For this reason, a one-night / two-day stay in Český Krumlov is a must to fully immerse yourself in everything this Unesco world heritage site has to offer.

In this post, I have detailed how to plan a visit to Český Krumlov and the best things to do and see in Český Krumlov over a one-night / two-day / 24-hour stay.

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How To Plan A Trip From Prague To Český Krumlov

How Long Should You Spend in Český Krumlov?

The answer is to spend at least one night and two days in Český Krumlov. This will give you between 24 and 48 hours to see all the best things in Český Krumlov and to experience the town once the crowds have gone home.

Balmy evenings and crisp mornings are magical and feel very different from the hustle and bustle during the day.

View of bridge across the river with the castle and tower in the background in Cesky Krumlov

Is a day trip to Český Krumlov from Prague long enough?

In my opinion, the answer is no. Visiting Český Krumlov from Prague in a day by road or train takes around 2-3 hours both ways, so if you only plan to visit for the day, you won’t have much time to explore the town.

Believe me when I say that once you are here, you will want to stay for one night, so you won’t have to leave this picturesque town without exploring all its nooks and crannies.

How To Get To Český Krumlov from Prague

We were visiting Prague on a second visit and looking for new adventures to experience while we were in the Czech Republic.

We decided to visit Český Krumlov and booked a return coach journey from/to Prague with FLIXBUS, which was punctual, comfortable and cheap.

The 3-hour journey from Prague Andel to Český Krumlov bus station and back the next day cost us £35.00.

Please note that if you are going to use FLIXBUS from Andel, the bus station is further along the road than the train station (which is probably where your taxi will drop you off).

The bus stops are numbered 1-7, with 6 and 7 on the roadside. We couldn’t see our stop, to begin with, so we went on a wild goose chase up and down the road looking for it, and then we just found it as the bus was about to leave!

When you get to Český Krumlov, stay on the bus until the last stop. There are two bus stops in Český Krumlov, and in our excitement, we got off at the Špičák bus stop, thinking it was the end of the line, but then we realised it wasn’t. Luckily, we hopped back on and continued on for five minutes to the main bus station.

When you get off the coach, it is a 10-minute walk to the centre of town, where you will no doubt be staying. Beware of the cobbled streets (remember, it is a medieval town) and wear flat, comfortable shoes (thank me later!).

If you want to take the direct train to Cesky Krumlov, you can catch it from Prague Hlavni at 09:21 a.m. every day. The journey is approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes.

It is worth noting that Cesky Krumlov is located very close to the Austrian border, so you can also reach the town easily from cities like Vienna or Salzburg.

Parking in Český Krumlov

The historical centre of Český Krumlov is a designated pedestrian zone that vehicles can only enter with a special time-limited permit issued by the town authorities.

If you are bringing a car and staying in a hotel, they will give you details on how to get a permit. For day visitors, there are spaces to park outside of the main town by the castle.

Český Krumlov is a walkable town, and you can get from one side to the other in about 20 minutes. However, there is so much to look at and experience that you will need a lot longer than that to get around.

Not forgetting stops for beer, wine, ice cream, and Trdelník, a circular hollow sugary pastry eaten on its own or filled with ice cream and other goodies!

Where to Stay in Český Krumlov

Hotel Grand is a popular place to stay in town due to its location in the central square.

We booked an executive room and were given spacious accommodation in the loft. The decor is a bit dull and dated, but the location is perfect, and you won’t be spending much time in your room when you have the whole of Český Krumlov to explore.

The hotel has no lift due to its heritage, so be prepared for a long walk up the stairs if you have a heavy suitcase!

Alternative hotels in Český Krumlov can be found here. Make sure to book your room well before your expected date of stay, as hotels get booked quickly, especially in the summer months.

Where to Eat and Drink in Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov has plenty of places to eat, with most of them serving traditional Czech dishes. The ones listed below are where we ate and drank during our one-night stay in Český Krumlov.

The Two Maries is the best spot in the city for traditional Czech food and offers tasty medieval Bohemian dinner platters with chicken, smoked meat, skewers, pancakes, dumplings, potatoes, and salad.

The menu, which also features vegetarian options, would appeal to anyone. The restaurant is themed in a medieval style and is accessed by a small wooden door. It sits at the side of the Vltava River and has beautiful views of the castle.

Hanoi Dreams is a Vietnamese restaurant located down wooden steps at the side of the bridge by the kayak and raft point.

I would normally stick to eating food from the country I was visiting, but after spending 3-days in Prague and sampling all the Czech food there, I was ready for a change. Hanoi is also one of my favourite cities, and the Czech Republic has a large Vietnamese community.

The food here was authentic and delicious (we both had chicken pad thai and panko shrimp, and the service came with a big smile from the young boy serving us).

Coffee Shops

Non-Solo Coffee Bar is a cute Italian coffee shop near the castle entrance and has a couple of seating areas outside to sip your flat white and watch the world go by.

Kolectiv Cafe serves delicious breakfasts and coffee and is located along the historic Latrán main street.

Sweet Treats

Mona Lisa Ice Cream Bar is located by the river in what looks like a dilapidated garage! Fear not; the ice cream is delicious and supposedly the best and cheapest in town!

Authentic Cafe is an art-deco-themed restaurant that serves mouthwatering cakes and pastries. It is a lovely spot in the old town square to enjoy morning coffee and a sweet treat.

Synagoga Cafe is on the edge of town, near the city park, next to a synagogue that now houses a museum of Jewish history. It serves cakes and refreshments.

It’s a good place to try koláč, a traditional sweet pastry with a fruit centre surrounded by puffy dough, an alternative to the popular trdlnik pastry sold throughout town.

Nine recommended things to do in Český Krumlov

  • Visit the 13th-century castle and gardens which overlook the town.
  • Climb to the top of the Castle Tower for a bird’s eye view.
  • Book a wooden raft tour of the Vltava River and learn some of Český Krumlov’s hidden secrets.
  • Be adventurous; hire a kayak, canoe or raft, and row yourself down the river.
  • Wander along Latrán Street and spot the historic buildings that are now home to artisan shops.
  • Soak up the atmosphere as you wander along the historic narrow streets and alleyways around the main square.
  • See St Vitus church, with its landmark pink church spire, visible from every point in town.
  • Visit one of the numerous town museums, including the torture museum!
  • Take a stroll through the park and see various buildings from the 1920s, including St Martin’s Chapel, the music pavilion and the Synagogue, where you will find a cafe in the former flat of the rabbi!
View of the town through a stone opening on the cloak bridge

What to Do in Český Krumlov – My Perfect 2-Day Itinerary

Spending two days in Český Krumlov town gives you plenty of time to see all the beautiful things the town has to offer.

Afternoon – Day One in Cesky Krumlov

We had caught the noon bus from Prague, so we arrived in Český Krumlov at 3 pm and headed down the hill to our hotel in Svornosti main square.

On the way, we had to stop at the most famous viewpoint in Český Krumlov, the tiny park at Seminarni Zahrada. From this spot, you will get sweeping views across the rooftops of the castle complex, and the scene is stunning.

Cesky Krumlov viewpoint

Unity Square (Náměstí Svornosti) is at the centre of town and is home to the Plague Column, an important feature in Český Krumlov and dedicated to those who lost their lives to the Black Death.

It also houses some popular hotels alongside the Town Hall, Torture Museum and the Authentic Cafe, which serves the most delicious pastries.

Cesky Krumlov town square with the plague column and pastel coloured buildings

In the main square, you will also find the Tourist Information Office (where you can purchase the Cesky Krumlov Card for discounted entry to attractions), an ATM, and a bank.

Once we checked into the Grand Hotel, we were straight back out to explore Krumlov’s hidden gems.

Fun Times on the Vltava River

Heading down to the Vltava River, we saw something we were not expecting – lots and lots of kayaks and dinghies cruising along the river with people singing and waving as they went along.

Youngsters, stag and hen groups (who knew they would come somewhere like this!), family groups, and couples happily paddled their way along the Vlatava without a care in the world.

Some were in fancy dress, some skimpily clad in swimwear, and some in everyday wear – no matter how they had arrived, they were all having the best time (helped with the copious amounts of beer they all seemed to be producing from their onboard coolers!)

People in dingies on the Vlatava River in Cesky Krumlov

It turns out this is the reason Czech citizens come to town: to have fun on the water. We weren’t prepared for this activity, so we watched the procession of watercraft cruise by us from the safety of the bridge.

So if this sounds fun to do in Český Krumlov, you can rent kayaks and dinghies from several companies along the riverbank and join in with the revelry.

View of the river with pastel buildings on each side in Ceky Krumlov
Large white building hiring out dingies to use on the Vlatava River

Evening – Day One in Cesky Krumlov

After a lovely, the evening descended, and we ate dinner at Hanoi Dreams (see information above). It is a Vietnamese Restaurant, and the food was delicious and a nice change from Czech goulash or duck, of which we had eaten plenty in Prague!

After dinner, we wandered down narrow alleyways, across bridges and through the park. The bus loads of tourists had long departed for Prague, and we felt that the town was much calmer.

Gazebo in the City Park in Cesky Krumlov

Folk Tales in Český Krumlov

City Park has a funny story. In the past, women would wash their clothes in the river, and on the opposite side, high on the river bank, was the Jesuit College.

Folk tales tell that the religious students spent far too much time peering out of the windows at the women as they soaked themselves in the water while washing their garments, making their tops see-through!

The elders caught wind of this, bought the park, and banned the women from doing their laundry there ever again. Is it true? Who knows, but it seems pretty feasible to me.

Riverside Walks

As we walked along, a few groups were still cruising down the river in the twilight; we crossed the main bridge and walked towards the castle on the opposite side of the river.

Evening views of the Vlatava river and buildings in the town of Cesky Krumlov

Český Krumlov castle’s stone facade is illuminated at night, adding to its charm. The twinkling lights from the restaurants and street lights add a sprinkling of romanticism, making the town feel more like a film set than an actual modern community.

To experience this magical vibe is the reason to stay in Český Krumlov for one night and discover this medieval hamlet in a more authentic setting without the crowds.

Cesky Krumlov Castle

We finished our evening in one of the riverside bars, and as we watched the lights reflect on the water, we agreed that we had made the right decision to stay one night in Český Krumlov.

River and castle view in Cesky Krumlov

A walking tour of Český Krumlov with the company Wiseman Free Walking Tours is a good way to learn about its history, but you need to book a space. If the Wiseman tour doesn’t suit your schedule, you can always opt for a paid walking tour of Český Krumlov.

Morning – Day Two in Cesky Krumlov

We woke up early to experience Český Krumlov before the coach tours descended from Prague and the surrounding areas.

We strolled to the castle entrance along the historic Latrán main street to see the original Bohemian Gothic and Renaissance houses, which have been converted to shops and restaurants.

Beneath the road arch at the top of town, we stopped at Non-Solo Coffee Bar to fuel our day with great Italian coffee.

Explore Český Krumlov Castle

Heading inside the castle grounds, we wandered along the Cloak Bridge ramparts for the most amazing view over the rooftops.

The castle, built in 1240, is the town’s focal point and is only slightly smaller than the magnificent Prague Castle. It is the second-largest castle in the Czech Republic.

If you want to see even more stunning views across Český Krumlov, you can buy a ticket to climb to the top of the beautifully decorated Castle Tower. You can’t miss it as it is decorated in charming pastel colours.

You will need to purchase a combined Tower & Museum ticket as there isn’t one solely for the tower climb; however, the museum is fascinating, and you will learn all about the castle’s history through the centuries.

View of the crucifix and the castle tower

While exploring the castle complex, wander around the vast gardens to see the maze hedge, flower borders, lake and 17th-century Rococo water fountain.

You will also see the revolving theatre stage, a controversial modern structure in the centre of the castle’s gardens.

You will see a bear in the castle moat, which has been home to these beautiful creatures since the 18th century.

Seeing a solitary animal pacing the concrete compound was distressing and unnecessary. It may follow the town’s history and tradition, but for me, it is time for a change.

Angie’s Travel Tip:

Get to the castle first thing in the morning if you want to take photos on the Cloak Bridge without the crowds. That way you will miss all the tourists arriving on coach tours.

Afternoon – Day Two in Cesky Krumlov

A must-do in Český Krumlov is to cruise along the River Vltava with Voroplavba River Raft Tours.

The company has a small kiosk near the town’s entrance where you can book cruises or turn up (as we did) on the river bank near where they cruise from and hop aboard if there is space.

Alternatively, you can book a guided wooden raft tour online to ensure you will get a seat onboard.

The cruise lasts one hour and stops halfway to replenish you with wine or beer.

Our English tour included a good mix of humorous and historical stories about Český Krumlov and its inhabitants. We found it a great way to see the town from a different perspective of the water.

Cesky Krumlov Castle
Looking up at the castle from the river

The tour will also take you down the two water channels along the river, which are a bit like a slow water ride at a theme park and a lot of fun. A fast one also needs to be avoided at all costs!

Fast running water channel

The cruise starts and finishes in two different places, so you will need to walk back through town, which is a great excuse to stop for lunch, beer, delicious ice cream, or Trdlink cake. It is a short walk along the river, which we found enjoyable.

People sitting in a riverside restaurant in Cesky Krumlov

Late Lunch at Tavern of the Two Maries

We chose to eat lunch at Tavern of the Two Maries but never found out why this Bohemian restaurant had such a name. Whatever the reason, it served great traditional food.

We had tried just about all the Czech food we could in Prague and Kutna Hora, including duck, dumplings and goulash, but Tavern of the Two Maries was wholeheartedly different to other restaurants in town. It served a menu based on medieval Czech dishes; even the serving staff were dressed in peasant outfits.

We chose the Old Bohemian Feast for Two and sampled chicken, smoked meat, a skewer, pancakes, dumplings, potatoes, and salad. It was delicious, all washed down with a local Czech beer – perfect.

Saying Goodbye to Český Krumlov

Before we left, we checked out the pretty pink St Vitus Church, which watches over the town from its elevated position; its spire is visible from anywhere around the town.

The Gothic church dates back to the 15th century and is an important monument within the Czech Republic.

Town view featuring St Vitus Church and the Vlatava River

We collected our carry-ons from the hotel and looked back at Český Krumlov from the town viewpoint before heading to the bus station to catch our bus back to Prague.

It’s quite easy to say that this is one of the most beautiful towns in central Europe I have ever visited, and I would recommend it to any other travellers heading to the Czech Republic.

Český Krumlov Tour From Prague

If you have enjoyed reading this post but haven’t got the time to stay overnight in town, then there are plenty of guided tours from Prague to Český Krumlov. After all, it’s better to see it that way than not visit at all!

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Kiki

Sunday 4th of June 2023

This is definitely on my list when I visit Prague. This looks peaceful and charming.

Wendy

Saturday 4th of February 2023

I adore Prague, and unfortunately didn't make it to Cesky Krumlov, but I hope to visit it someday. Your photos of this charming town are excellent!

WhereAngieWanders

Sunday 5th of February 2023

Thank you for your kind words. Maybe you will get there one day as it is fabulous. I am returning to the Czech Republic next month to visit Brno and hope it has similar vibes to Cesky Krumlov.

Laureen Lund

Saturday 4th of February 2023

Wow. Your photos are really beautiful and it makes this place shine. I wish I had known to go there when we visited Prague. It really does look like a fairytale.. bit like Brugge, a bit like Sighisoara. Thanks for turning me on to this place.

WhereAngieWanders

Sunday 5th of February 2023

No problem, thank you for your kind words.

Alma

Saturday 4th of February 2023

Cesky Krumlov looks like a delightful place to explore. Always fun to see some unusual things too.

WhereAngieWanders

Saturday 4th of February 2023

For a small town, Cesky Krumlov is filled with amazing sights.

WhereAngieWanders

Saturday 4th of February 2023

It was a fabulous town and for somewhere so small had a lot of things to see and do there

Latitude Adjustment

Sunday 2nd of October 2022

This is fantastic.Saving. Cheers!