Driving The Wild Atlantic Way: Slea Head to Dunquin Pier on the Dingle Peninsula

When planning my 10-day Ireland road trip, one place took priority on my itinerary: the Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry.

The Dingle Peninsula is part of Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way, one of the world's most scenic road trips, spanning a whopping 1,600 miles. I would love to do the entire drive someday, but the whole journey was too much for me on this trip.

Instead, I drove from Killarney, where I was staying, to the start of the famous 30-mile Slea Head Drive, which runs through the Dingle Peninsula and is part of the Wild Atlantic Way, so at least I did a bit of it!

My drive took me from Dingle to Slea Head, where I admired the wild coastal landscape. I then stopped by the famous Dunquin Pier (Dun Chaoain) with its steep pathway to the ocean, and afterwards learned about the lesser-known Blasket Islands at the Great Blasket Centre. It's an informative tourist attraction that I would recommend.

I am so glad I included the Dingle Peninsula on my road trip itinerary. It's a stunning destination, and I hope that after reading this post, you will agree it's 100% worth visiting.

Please note: The photographs featured are all my own. This is my first-hand experience.

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Angie's Top Tip: If you need to rent a car in Ireland, I recommend using Discover Cars. Even though you may be tempted to hire a large vehicle, remember that rural areas have narrow lanes and parking can be difficult, so a smaller car is more practical.

What is the Slea Head Drive?

The spectacular 30-mile circular Slea Head coastal route is a key part of the Wild Atlantic Way and offers great views of some of Ireland's best coastal scenery. By driving part of it, I was able to experience the Dingle Peninsula in a day, which fitted my Ireland itinerary perfectly.

I was looking for raw, dramatic Irish scenery, and the Slea Head drive had it in bucketloads. The rolling green hills, wide-open pastures, grey stone walls and cottages, sandy beaches, and dramatic windswept views fulfilled all my expectations.

Angie's Top Tip: On the drive from Killarney, you'll pass through Dingle Town, so if you need snacks, you can pick something up here.

I decided I would head directly to Dunquin Pier from the start of the Slea Head Drive at Dingle Harbour.

Once out of town, the scenery along the way was beautiful, and I knew I had reached Slea Head as I passed a large white crucifix, secured into the rocks. This is when the views get really sensational. A short way past the cross is parking for Slea Head Viewpoint, where you'll see the Blasket islands stretching out in front of you.

From the car park, you can walk down to Coomeenoole Beach. You can also walk across the cliffs to Dunmore Head. The walk will take around 45 minutes each way so that it will eat into your time. Bear this in mind if you are planning to make many more stops on the Slea Head Drive. If you are a Star Wars fan, you will recognise Dunmore Head as being in The Last Jedi - Thala-Siren Scene.

Dingle Peninsula Cliff Walk

Arriving at Dunquin, it was frightening to see that, despite yellow warning signs with icons of people falling over the edge of the cliff, quite a few people were still teetering on the edge, determined to get "THAT" photo for social media.

I, on the other hand, felt very nervous going anywhere near the edge and stayed as far back as I could, straining my neck to glimpse the water below. At one point, I took a well-trodden grassed path leading along the cliff, then realised it was leading me closer and closer to the edge.

Can you see the Sleeping Giant Island in this photograph?

Vertigo aside (yes, it's a real pain for me), I walked the grassy banks, a good distance from the edge, while the westerly wind whipped my face and the echo of the ocean bellowed as it crashed into the rocks. The sound of the waves, the sight of distant islands, the overcast August weather and a sprinkling of Irish magic all combined to make my experience on the Dingle Peninsula unforgettable.

Angie's Top Tip: Fancy a coffee and cake? There's a small hut selling refreshments by Dunquin Pier car park, and as the sign reads, the best brownie in the world. And in case you're wondering - yes, it was delicious. If you are after the toilet, you'll find one in the Great Blasket Centre.

Dunquin Pier and the Sheep's Highway

The Dunquin Pier is the major tourist attraction on the Slea Road Drive. Stand by the information board and the Spanish Armada monument, which commemorates several ships that sank here in the 16th century, to get the best shots.

You can walk down its pathway, also known as the sheep's highway, to the water's edge. Why the Sheep's Highway? They were once herded up and down to be transported by boat to Great Blasket Island. Whatever you do, don't try to drive down the pier; it's a massive No No.

Now, it's passengers' boarding day trips for the Blasket Islands that have to make their way down this walkway. Between March and November (if good weather prevails), you can go out to sea and observe all manner of wildlife, including puffins in May, June and July. It's best to buy tickets in advance; if that isn't possible, you can try buying one on the day from the ferry huts. However, in my case, they were shut, so I missed out.

It's really steep; getting down is one thing, but getting back up is another. I started walking down it, and my shins ached within minutes, so I took the easy way out, photographed the scenery around me, and came back up.

From above, I got these great shots focusing on the pier, the surrounding cliffs, and the ocean, so even though I didn't make it down to take close-up photos of the water, I was happy enough with what I had.

The Blasket Islands and the Great Blasket Centre

The uninhabited Great Blasket Island lies in an archipelago collectively known as the Blasket Islands. They areat the most westerly point in Europe. I hadn't heard of them before, so curious old me was excited when I spotted the Great Blasket Centre. There is a big car park out back, so you can drive here from Dunquin Pier.

Inside the centre, audio stories are told by former inhabitants of Great Blasket via panels. The stories include journeys to new lives in America, suffering during the famine, conditions on the island, what people did for a living, and how their culture survived the centuries until 1953, when the last islanders left.

Even if somewhere like this isn't what you'd normally find interesting, I challenge you not to leave the Great Blasket Centre without being amazed by its contents. I learnt so much about this historic Irish community through the storytelling and displays.

Afterwards, I walked out to the rusty-coloured viewing platform and simply stared out to sea. It was pretty mesmerising and made me feel like a speck in this raw Irish landscape.

As I watched the mighty Atlantic Ocean crash against the majestic sea cliffs below me, I felt as if I were at the edge of the world. In fact, standing in that exact position, I knew that after the Blasket Islands, there was no more land until Canada. You don't get more remote than that!

HEADING TO WATERFORD NEXT? PLEASE CHECK OUT MY TRAVEL GUIDE: 14 Best Things To Do In Waterford – Ireland’s Oldest City

My travel tips to help you plan your day on the Dingle Peninsula

Where to stay

If you base yourself in Killarney, you can enjoy all the attractions this area offers and only be an hour's drive from Dingle. I booked a 3-night stay at The Europe Resort. It is fancy, in fact, it's one of Ireland's top hotels, and it comes with a price tag, but hey, it's not every day you can look out over a lake (Lough Lein) and Ireland's highest mountain range from a hotel terrace.

Alternatively, here are some accommodations in Dingle

How long do you need?

The circular Slea Head Drive can be completed in 4 hours. That's great news if you only want to see the scenery from the car window; however, if you plan to stop, you'll need to add extra time. I spent 3 and a half hours completing the activities I have written about, plus 90 minutes driving from Killarney to Dunquin Pier. So I would say give yourself a day to complete the Slea Head Drive at a reasonable pace.

Can you do a tour of the Dingle Peninsula?

If you prefer someone else to do the driving, then you can book a guided tour from Killarney to the wild coast of Dingle Peninsula & Slea Head. Note that this tour does not include a visit to the Great Blasket Centre.

What are conditions like along the drive?

Roads are narrow and winding, and you may come face to face with sheep grazing by the wayside. Drive at the recommended speed and slow down near sheep; they can be flighty. In Ireland, they drive on the left-hand side of the road, with the driver on the right-hand side of the vehicle.

Driving clockwise on the Slea Head Drive

The Slea Head drive needs to be done clockwise (Dingle -> Ventry -> Dunquin -> Ballyferriter -> Dingle). Two-way lanes can only be used by locals. Tourists must stick to the clockwise route on the Dingle Peninsula, as the lanes are narrow and congestion is common, especially in peak season.

Where do you park at Dunquin Pier?

There is a small car park by the pier (near the refreshments hut). On my visit, there was a mix of campervans and cars, and most spaces were taken. Some vehicles were parked on the road by the verges, but I'm not sure that is really allowed. Try to get here early in the day to find a parking space.