Pen Y Fan Summit marker and pile of stones

Is the Pen Y Fan Walk Difficult? Discover The Truth About Reaching The Summit

If only there had been something for me to read before I attempted the Pen Y Fan walk, so I could have better prepared myself. I didn't find much, only blogs stating how easy the walk is (I have to disagree), which is why I have written this guide. It will be especially useful for novice mountain walkers, but it will also assist seasoned walkers who want to learn about Pen Y Fan routes.

This Pen-Y-Fan guide includes trail directions, essential safety tips, weather information, and suggestions on what to wear for the walk. In fact, everything you need to know to make your walk up Pen-Y-Fan an enjoyable experience.

Sheep standing on the side of Pen-Y- Fan mountain.

At 886 metres, Pen Y Fan is the highest mountain in South Wales and is one of the most popular mountain walks in the United Kingdom, but is hiking Pen Y Fan right for you?

The Pen Y Fan walk was at the top of my list of things to do in the Brecon Beacons - now formally known as the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park. I wanted to experience something outside my comfort zone, and I thought this hike would challenge me - and it did!

This travel guide may contain affiliate links. For more information, please read my disclaimer and privacy policy.

Pen Y Fan Online Resources

Before I started my walk, I eagerly combed hiking websites to learn more about the difficulty of climbing Pen Y Fan.

Plenty of online information told me this mountain, nestled in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park, was easy to navigate and suitable for all ages, from children to the more mature.

One website even stated it was a mountain walk for softies - I later learned, during my climb up the highest mountain in the Brecon Beacons, that this statement was far from the truth for me.

Pen Y Fan's height of 886 metres above sea level was only 200 metres shorter than Table Mountain in South Africa, and I managed that ascent with minimal discomfort.

I surmised that walking up this iconic Welsh mountain couldn't be as challenging as hiking to the top of Table Mountain, so I decided to attempt the ascent to the summit of Pen Y Fan.

I was to be proved wrong, and with every heavy footstep and beating heartbeat, I found that Pen Y Fan is not an easy walk. As a result, I have answered questions for my readers that I wish I had found before attempting to climb this challenging Welsh mountain.

It is definitely better for you as a novice to know what is in store before walking up Pen y Fan!

Regardless of how difficult hiking Pen Y Fan was, it gave me a real sense of achievement, and I am delighted I did it.

The rewards for doing it speak for themselves in the form of sensational views along the route and at the summit.

Scroll through to the end, and I think you'll agree that the photographs speak for themselves.

View of neighbouring mountain peak from Pen-Y-Fan.
Incredible landscape views during the walk

FAQs About Walking Pen Y Fan

What is the height of Pen Y Fan?

Pen Y Fan is 886m above sea level. The ascent to the start of the walking route from the Pont ar Daf car park is 440m.

Near the top, you will see what you think is the summit - it's not. It is Corn Du, the second-highest peak in the Brecon Beacons.

If you are feeling adventurous and your legs haven't turned to jelly, take the left-hand pathway and see Corn Du.

If, like me, all you want is to stand at the summit of Pen-Y-Fan sooner rather than later, take the right-hand trail and keep going!

Do I have to be fit to climb Pen Y Fan?

This million-dollar question is a hard one to answer.

I found it extremely tough, as did my husband, and by the number of people who had stopped at the side of the trail for a breather, so did plenty of others.

We expected it to be challenging, but not as intense as it was.

Our fitness level is OK. We walk a lot, but we aren't hill/mountain climbers, which differs significantly from walking on flat terrain.

However, compared to how hard we found the climb, many others didn't find it nearly as challenging.

In particular, the small child who greeted me at the summit showed me that Pen Y Fan can be a suitable walk for children. Also, the man running up to the top carrying a huge weighted rucksack made me feel quite inadequate!

I later discovered that the SAS used this as a training ground for the world's oldest Special Forces test, so after hearing that, I didn't feel quite so feeble!

How difficult is it to walk up Pen y Fan?

Regardless of what the guidebooks say, Pen Y Fan is a challenging and demanding hike. It is not a stroll in the park, as it is often portrayed to be!

As I looked up at this imposing mountain, I could never have realised that the walk would push me to my limits and test my mettle.

It proves that you can achieve most things you set your mind to; however, you should never compare your abilities to what others find easy.

If you don't feel comfortable, it is not a failure to stop; it could be the correct decision for you to make.

Cobbled pathway leading up Pen Y Fan.
The Motorway Route up the mountain

Can I hike the mountain if I am scared of heights?

Absolutely! There are no drops or craggy edges to worry about on the Motorway route. A wide path (as seen in the photograph above) cuts through the mountain's lush grasslands.

How many Pen Y Fan routes are there to the top?

There are five routes to reach the summit.

The so-called "Easiest" Pen Y Fan Walk (excuse me while I laugh out loud) is 4 miles long - 2 miles up and 2 miles back down (it seriously felt a lot longer than that!).

Locals refer to this walking route as "The Motorway" because it can become hectic. This walk starts at the Pont ar Daf car park, located by the stream, and takes between 2 and 3 hours to complete.

A similar 4-mile (7k) circular walk, called the "Military Route", starts at the Storey Arms Outdoor Education Centre and follows a well-marked path to the summit.

The route is relatively steep in places, but the well-maintained trail makes it accessible to most hikers. It takes between 3 and 4 hours to hike.

It includes the smaller mountain (I use the word "smaller'' very lightly), Corn Du, which is 873m in height.

Other hiking routes include the Pen Y Fan Horseshoe Ridge Route (10 miles / 5-6 hours) for experienced hikers, the scenic Cefn Cwm Llwch Route (4 miles / 3 hours), and the less-visited Cwm Llwch Route (4 miles / 3-4 hours). You won't do any of these as a novice hiker, but never say never!

What condition is the Motorway route in?

The Motorway is the most manageable route up Pen Y Fan for a novice. It's uneven but in good condition, and formed with a top layer of broken tiles. It has a few inclined steps.

How long will it take to reach the summit?

The easy Pen y Fan walk takes an average of one hour each way, depending on your pace.

We managed around 100 steps and then stopped to catch our breath as we approached the summit. Walking Pen Y Fan took us approximately 90 minutes each way.

Green mountain peaks on Pen Y Fan.

When should I choose to visit?

You can climb it all year round, but you need to be prepared for when the weather gets bad, at which point Pen Y Fan is dangerous to climb.

Always check the forecast before your ascent; what might start as a sunny day could quickly turn into fog and rain as you get higher into the clouds.

What time of day is best to visit?

We visited at the end of September and arrived in the late afternoon. As we ascended (slowly!), we were met with hordes of visitors on their way down.

If that many walkers had been heading towards the summit at the same time as us, I think we would have given up.

The mountain gets over 350,000 visitors a year, so the number of other climbers on the mountain with you depends on luck and the weather.

Be aware of the sunset times during the year. We witnessed visitors starting their climb as we were on our way down (oh, the joy!), and when we asked why so many people had suddenly appeared, we were told it was for the sunset.

This works well if you have intentionally planned it, but the last thing you want is to be on the mountain when it gets dark. Always have a torch with you - just in case of emergencies.

Pen Y Fan Weather

Due to the sudden extreme changes in weather conditions that can be experienced, Pen y Fan is considered one of the most dangerous mountains in Wales.

Before starting your hike, take precautions by referring to the Met Office Weather Forecast. This site will tell you if the weather is suitable for climbing.

Are there any guided walks to Pen Y Fan?

Yes, there are. During the day, you can join a guided Pen-Y-Fan walking tour, which includes stories of Brecon Beacons myths and legends.

How many peaks are there in the Brecon Beacons?

There are four main peaks in Bannau Brycheiniog National Park. Pen Y Fan (886m), Corn Du (873m), Cribyn (795m), and Fan Y Big (719m), yes, you read correctly. It isn't a spelling mistake!

View of adjacent mountains from summit of Pen y Fan mountain.

Which is easier to hike, Pen Y Fan or Snowdon?

Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa) is harder to climb than Pen Y Fan, as it rises to 1085m compared to Pen Y Fan's 886m. Snowdon also has difficult drops and inclines.

How do I get to Pen Y Fan by public transport?

If you are coming by public transport from Brecon or Cardiff, you can take the Stagecoach T4 bus to the Storey Arms Outdoor Centre.  

Is there a car park at Pen Y Fan?

If you are coming by car, there are two car parks along the A470. One is at the Storey Arms Outdoor Centre, but the best car park is at Pont ar Daf. 

Are there toilets nearby?

Yes, in the Pont ar Daf car park, but none are en route to the summit.

Is there any place to get refreshments for the walk?

Yes, a small burger van is in the car park at Pont ar Daf.

However, I recommend you bring snacks and a large water bottle. I particularly like the Super Sparrow range of water bottles.

Can I wear trainers for the climb?

Yes. I had no choice but to wear mine as my walking boots had fallen apart the day before.

The correct footwear is always advisable, and a good grip is essential as the gravel pathway to the summit may prove hazardous in bad weather.

My new walking boots have now arrived, ready for my next adventure.

I would also advise investing in a pair of walking poles - I saw several walkers using them and have since bought a pair myself.

What clothing should I wear to climb Pen Y Fan?

Layers! I started at the bottom with a t-shirt, fleece, ski jacket and woollen hat.

Midway up the mountain, I stripped back my coat and fleece (when I was hot and struggling on the walk), but I left my hat on as my ears were cold.

At the top, I put all my clothes back on, plus a pair of gloves, as it was very windy and cold.

Don't forget the importance of breathable walking socks and waterproof walking boots. Also, a small first aid kit is always a good idea to pack on a hike.

Girl Guides motto - Be prepared!

Can I bring my dog?

Yes. Pen y fan is dog-friendly; however, your four-legged friend should be kept on a lead due to the number of sheep grazing on the mountain.

What does Pen Y Fan mean?

A rough translation means "Top One" or "Top of the Summit." Fitting as this is the highest peak in Bannau Brycheiniog.

How is Pen Y Fan Pronounced?

Being English, I pronounced it 'Penny Fan' until a lovely Welsh lady corrected me and told me it was 'Pen er Van'. So make sure you say it the right way!

Why is there a stone pile at the summit?

The stone pile indicates a Bronze Age burial place. A National Trust plaque marks the summit of the stack. While this is an ancient burial site, several people have died on Pen Y Fan in recent times from heat exhaustion and lightning strikes!

Angie at the summit of Pen y Fan mountain standing at 886 Meters.
My moment of glory - I made it to the summit!

What can you see from the summit?

From Pen-Y-Fan's summit area, you can see the Bristol Channel, the Gower Peninsula, the Black Mountains, Exmoor, the Cambrian Mountains, Brecon, and much of Mid-Wales and the South Wales valleys.

view across South Wales.
Views from the summit

Where can I stay in the area?

Nant Ddu in Merthyr Tydfil is one of the closest country hotels to the mountain.

YHA Libanus and YHA Danywenallt are in the Brecon Beacons and are excellent bases for all outdoor activities.

Photographs of the Pen y Fan Walk

View of Pen-Y-Fan from the roadside.
View of the twin peaks of Pen y Fan and Corn Du
Bridge Over Stream leading to one of the Pan y Fan climbing trails.
Wooden bridge at the start of the "Motorway" route up the mountain
Sign saying Bannau Brycheiniog.
National Trust marker Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons)
View over trees and shrubs on the slopes of Pen-Y-Fan.
Views of the surrounding landscape walking route
More sheep grazing on the slopes of Pen-Y-Fan.
Sheep grazing on the slopes of Pen-Y-Fan.
Horse and sheep grazing on the slopes of Pen-Y-Fan.
View of valley from Pen-Y-Fan.
Almost at the summit of Pen y Fan
View from the summit of Pen-Y-Fan.
View from the summit of Pen-Y-Fan.
Views from the summit
Pen Y Fan Summit marker and pile of stones.
National Trust marker at the summit of Pen y Fan

Conclusion

So, that's it! Everything you need to know about the Pen Y Fan Walk. 

Pen y Fan was a challenging mountain walk; however, the effort was worth it, as the views are breathtaking!

South Wales is a stunning part of the world, and the sense of achievement when reaching the summit far outweighs any struggles one may encounter on the way.

What do you think? Would you hike to the top of Pen Y Fan? Please let me know in the comments box below.

Need help planning your next holiday?
Please check out my curated Travel Resources Guide for the exact booking platforms, transport tools, and eSIMs I use on my travels.

22 Comments

  1. Fantastic review. I walked it with the dog a couple of days ago. I thought I was fit from my regular, long dog walks, well , how I was humbled and schooled in realising that it's a different walk altogether than flat ground walking! I've done it before but this time seemed harder.......maybe because 25 years ago I was much fitter and in the army lol.

    1. Hi Chris, I am so glad you enjoyed reading the review. As you say, it s a completely different experience to walking on flat terrain and isn't the leisurely stroll others make it out to be! I'm glad you made it, and I hope it was clear at the top to give you those beautiful views as a reward.

  2. I'm glad I found this article, I hiked Pen Y Ghent with a group and whilst it was an amazing experience it most definitely was not easy, not for me anyway. Was thinking of joining them to hike Pen Y Fan but it seems it wil be just as 'easy' so I think I'll give it a miss until I've built up my fitness.

    1. I am glad that you found my information useful. I am sure you will get to climb Pen-Y-Fan one day, and I am sure you will enjoy it more when you know your fitness level will be able to cope with it.

  3. We had planned this trip a couple of weeks ago. Myself daughter and granddaughter . It was a challenge me being 69 but we did it in three and a half hours including lunch at the top . It was funny though because we were looking for the summit plaque. Only to find out we were on the wrong one lol you can tell it was foggy , couldn’t see a thing but we did find the right one and got the obligatory photo. Just that we have to do it again when the weather is better so we can get some photos. Learning curve I suppose but I need to let my knees cool down before we again venture into the wilderness.

    1. Hi Stephen, well done for getting up there in the fog. I bet that was quite scary in places. So lovely that you got to do the hike with your daughter and granddaughter making some great memories together. I think we were really lucky that the weather was good for us as it can turn on a sixpence and one minute it can be sunny and the next its blowing a gale! I hope you get to climb it again and get those epic photographs on a clear day.

  4. I’ve just got back from this trip with my 5-year-old, and boy, do I wish that I read your blog first!
    We took the 10 mile round trip from the 2nd car park further down the road!
    Although our calves are killing us now, we loved every second, and we actually got so sunburnt!

    My son did really well in the climb and enjoyed it just as much as we did. But you're right, it's not for the faint-hearted - I also found that coming down was harder than going up. Put a lot of strain on the knees!

    1. Firstly congratulations on getting to the top of Pen-Y-Fan, and as you say, it is worth all the pain for the views from the top. It's amazing how resilient children can be at just getting on with it! When I hiked up the mountain, I saw several small children walking up and down it without a care in the world - Oh to be young again! I am glad you are enjoying my website, you will find lots of tips on it for other destinations in the UK and abroad.

  5. Thank you for a great honest account of your hike this has made my mind up to have a go but take my time and enjoy it.I'm glad to hear it is a bit of a challenge so i can get the right equipment.
    Thanks
    Phil

  6. I would love to do this! What a gorgeous place, and your photos are fabulous. I'd be one of those annoying people who would probably call it fairly easy as I like climbing hills (do some every day) and much prefer it to coming down which I find too hard on the knees. This is exactly the kind of hike Don and I would search out when travelling. Good for you for doing it! It must have felt amazing at the top!

    1. You put me to shame climbing hills every day! I think because I normally hike on the flat this became much more of a challenge but I did punch the air when I got to the top and saw those views! I'm thinking maybe Mount Snowdon next (my husband is thinking probably not!)

  7. Those views are amazing and the landscape of the mountain itself is beautiful too. It's good to read an honest and real account of how hard this walk is, very useful to be prepared. Well done for making it to the top.

    1. Thank you, Phoebe, even though it was hard I felt a real sense of achievement at the top and as you say the views were so worth the pain!

  8. I came very close to booking a trip to Brecon Beacons earlier this year, but ended up in the Peak District instead. Thanks for your honest opinion on this hike, I think I might have to find an easier one. Hope to make it to that area soon!

    1. I would definitely recommend the area, there are so many things to see and do in the Brecon Beacons. I loved it so much I've booked for next year!

  9. This looks like a fantastic hike & well worth the effort for these views. I really appreciate the honesty about how hard you found it. At the end of the day this is all we want to know. I'm not a fan when people tell you it's easy & the reality is far from that. It's actually not at all helpful! I also appreciate you info on toilets as this is also what I want to know before a hike ;). Your posts have inspired me to visit Wales...& then we went back into lockdown so fingers crossed I can make it back one day soon.

    1. It was my only trip this year but it was a fantastic one and I have already booked up again for next year! I loved the freedom it allowed me in these tumultuous times and would be quite content staying in the UK again next year ( although I have got 5 trips from this year to still re-book!)

  10. The views are gorgeous, and I'm glad you found it was worth it. I totally understand the feeling of "this is much harder than guidebooks made me believe" though. I'm good at walking/hiking even for long distances, but when it comes to climbing, I'm not so sure... I've been on trails where I thought I'd have no problem, and took me forever to reach the top - though once there, you do feel a sense of accomplishment. Good to know what to expect though, and for that this is a helpful post.

    1. Hi Emese, I'm glad I'm not alone in finding hikes and walks often tougher than expected. As you say it gives you the best feeling of accomplishment when you reach the end!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *