I Love Faro sign in front of the harbour.

Best Things To Do In Faro, Portugal in One Week

When most people think of Faro, they picture an airport terminal — a quick stop before heading to the beaches of Albufeira or Lagos. But after spending a week in Faro in November, under endless blue skies and 20-degree sunshine, I can confirm that Faro is so much more than a gateway to the Algarve.

This compact city features a charming Old Town, distinctive architecture, and delicious Portuguese cuisine. It also has easy access to the Ria Formosa Natural Park, its island beaches and charming nearby towns.

Faro offered the perfect balance of slow travel, sightseeing, and relaxation, making it a true hidden gem in the Algarve.

In this blog post, I highlight what to do in Faro and why it is worth visiting as a standalone destination beyond the airport.

Mosic tiled street in Faro with tables and chairs outside a restaurant.
Faro is full of cobbled, mosaic streets and outdoor restaurants.

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Top 5 Things to Do in Faro
Explore Cidade Velha: Enter through Arco da Vila to see the Cathedral.
Visit the Bone Chapel: The eerie but beautiful Capela dos Ossos.
Ria Formosa Boat Tour: Go birdwatching via solar-powered boat.
Climb the Cathedral Tower: For the best panoramic views of the lagoon.
Island Hopping: Take a ferry to Ilha Deserta or Farol.

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Discovering Faro on a free walking tour

On my first full day in Faro, I joined a two-hour walking tour to get under the skin of Faro’s history. Having done guided tours in other cities, I knew it would be a fantastic introduction to Faro's history.

The walking tour was with Faro Free Walking Tours. It is one of the free things to do in Faro, but a tip at the end of the tour is always suggested. If you think the guide has done a good job, by all means give him what you think he/she deserves - we thought the insights provided by Carlos were great, and so we were happy to give him a good tip.

Faro Cathedral viewed through orange trees.
Faro Cathedral bell tower.

Uncovering Faro's Rich History

Our guide was Farense (a person from Faro). He led us from the meeting point by the Arco da Vila (the main entrance to the Old Town) through the cobbled streets, explaining the stories behind the buildings that reflect the city’s fascinating mix of influences—Phoenician, Roman, Moorish, and Byzantine.

We also learnt about the line of kings who had ruled the country, with Alfonso I, Portugal's first king, even going into combat with his mother to change laws he found outdated.

Our guide pointed out the Museu Municipal, housed in an old convent. The museum houses an intact Roman mosaic pavement and artefacts from Faro's colourful past.

There is a fee to enter, but it is free on Sundays. A statue of Alfonso lll stands on a grassy patch in front of the museum and commemorates his role in conquering Faro from the Moors in the 13th century.

Statue of a king wearing a crown and holding a sceptre on a stone plinth in Faro.

Outside the old city walls, you'll see a fascinating azulejo mural depicting the agreement between King Afonso III and the Moors that brought peace between the two. It's a visual reminder of Faro’s layered past, which included Jews, Moors, and Portuguese living in different quarters of the old city.

Tiles blue and white plaque showing a king and a moor meeting.

Having learnt facts about Faro that we would never have discovered without joining the walking tour, we decided that the following day we would return to Faro’s Old Town (Cidade Velha) and explore it at our own pace, which is precisely what we did.

If you're planning to extend your trip, check out my 10-Day Portugal Itinerary.

Top Things To Do In Faro Old Town

Back through the main entrance, the Arco da Vila, we remembered that on our walking tour, we had been told it was built in the early 19th century by the architect Francisco Xavier Fabri. A Moorish gate from the original medieval walls, uncovered only in the last few decades, is evidence of the Islamic presence in Portugal many centuries ago.

We carried on a few steps along the cobbled street and found ourselves at the Cathedral of Faro (Sé de Faro), which dominates the main square. Orange trees, bougainvillaea bushes and white-washed buildings give the Old Town such a charming feel.

White and yellow building of Faro Cathedral.
Faro Cathedral Ticket Office.

Inside Faro Cathedral

We paid €5 each for entry to Faro Cathedral. We were wowed by its beautiful interior, with golden altars, tiled alcoves and an 18th-century red-painted German church organ. From the viewing platform, we could see the Cathedral's interior.

Interior of Faro Cathedral.
Ornate side altar in Faro Cathedral.
The side chapel has beautiful Azulejo tiles along the wall.
Red church organ in Faro Cathedral.

Climbing to the top of the Cathedral bell tower is one of the best things to do in Faro Old Town. Entry is included in the Cathedral entrance fee.

The panoramic views over the marina and Ria Formosa are breathtaking. You'll be able to see storks nesting on rooftops, boats gliding across the lagoon, and terracotta rooftops glowing in the sun. Sadly, I had to wait downstairs while Mr P went up to take the photographs, as I don't like heights.

Man with his arms in the air at the top of Faro Cathedral bell tower.
Mr P is better at heights than I am!
Views of Rio Formosa from the bell tower of Faro Cathedral.
Views from the Cathedral bell tower.

One more thing to see in a quiet corner of the Cathedral garden is the small bone chapel. It's more an altar than a chapel, and most of the skulls are missing, but it captures Portugal’s fascination with mortality. For a more intact bone church, don't miss visiting Igreja do Carmo.

small white chapel in the corner of a garden.
The bone altar is through the far doorway.

Paço Episcopal and Faro’s Famous Tiles

Porto might be the better-known place for seeing Portuguese blue-and-white azulejo tiles; however, a treat is in store for you right here. Beside the Cathedral, the Paço Episcopal (Bishop’s Palace) hides a beautiful Faro attraction that's a little-known secret.

Entrance to the Bishop's Palace in Faro.
Entrance to the Bishop's Palace.

Its rooms are lined with historic Portuguese tiles, both traditional azulejo and ceramic tiles in yellow, brown, and purple, printed with religious symbols and figures.

Picture tiles along the side of a wall in Faro.

Paço Episcopal costs 5 euros to enter. You'll only need around 20 minutes in here, and the artistry alone is worth the visit. If you enjoy photography, the vibrant colours will catch your eye and make for good images.

Angie in a multi-coloured dress taking a photograph of a coloured tiled wall in the Bishop's Palace in Faro.
Angie in a multi-coloured dress standing in front of a wall tiled with blue yellow and beige ceramic tiles making a relighious picture.

Walking the city walls and enjoying sundowners

After visiting the previous two places, we walked along the city walls, soaking up the quiet charm and spotting storks nesting on chimneys. They are not long, so don't expect anything like the Dubrovnik Old Town walls; however, they offer another vantage point of the Rio Formosa.

Angie in a multi-coloured dress standing on Faro's city walls.
Standing on Faro's city wall walkway.

When the sun began to dip, we headed to O Castelo Restaurante Bar Terraza for a drink with a view. With the Ria Formosa spread out before us, the golden light shimmering over the water, and a glass of Vinho Verde (traditional Portuguese green wine) in hand, it was pure Faro magic.

Angie sitting in a rooftop bar looking across at the Rio Formosa wetlands in Faro.
Waiting for my Vinho Verde.

Visiting Igreja do Carmo and the bone chapel

The Bone Chapel entry fee is 2 euros, and you will find it through the door on the left-hand side of Igrejo de Carmo.

As someone who adores ossuaries and bone churches, having visited them in the Czech Republic and Paris, the small Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones) inside the Igreja do Carmo (Church of the Carmelites) was high on my list of the best things to do in Faro.

The golden baroque interior of Igreja do Carmo was as impressive as Faro Cathedral's, but the real draw lies behind it - a crypt full of human remains.

Angie dressing in a t-shirt and trousers stands in front of a white and yellow church in Faro.
Here I am in front of the Igreja do Carmo.
Angie stands taking a photograph of the golden altar in Igreja de Carmo in Faro.
The golden altar in Igrejo de Carmo was impressive.

The walls are decorated with the bones and skulls of monks. I find ossuaries strangely beautiful, not scary or weird, just a quiet reflection on the passage of time.

It was interesting to learn that the graveyard that was once attached to the bone church was sold and is now a nursery.

As I walked inside the bone church, the sound of children laughing and playing just the other side of the door was quite bewildering, but brought the reality of life and death to the forefront of my mind. One cheeky chappy even peeked through a pane of glass on the door, totally unfazed by tourists looking at a chapel full of bones!

stone with an engraved message reading Take a moment and realize everyone will reach this state and dated 1818.
This plaque was above the door.

I have visited a few on my travels, the most interesting being the Bone Church in Kutná Hora, Czech Republic. Visiting the bone chapel might be one of the more unusual things to do in Faro, and not for everyone's taste, but personally, I really enjoyed seeing it.

Close up image of skulls and femurs.

See the azulejo tiles in Igreja de São Pedro

Close to the bone church is Igreja de São Pedro. I stumbled upon it by accident and was intrigued by its incredible baroque design and azulejo wall tiles. I discovered it is one of the oldest and most important religious structures in Faro. If you like Portuguese blue-and-white tiles, don't miss a visit.

Exploring the Ria Formosa Natural Park

Solar Boat

One of the relaxing things to do in Faro is to take a two-hour solar-powered boat birdwatching tour through the Ria Formosa Natural Park. I found that gliding silently through the calm waters was very peaceful.

The park is a haven for birdwatchers, and even though I'm not one, I still enjoyed the experience. I spotted spoonbills, oystercatchers, black-winged stilts, and even little egrets darting along the marshes.

If you’re lucky (I wasn't), you might even see the odd flamingo. However, as our boat captain told us, they prefer the salt flats near the airport, where there is no tidal movement. The solar boat enhances the experience: it's eco-friendly, quiet, and one of the top activities in Faro for nature lovers.

On our way back into the harbour from our Rio Formosa trip, we had great views of the old town walls and buildings.

Old Town Castle and walls viewed from the water in Faro.

Island Hopping

There is no beach in Faro; however, from the marina, you can hop on a small ferry to the outer islands of the Ria Formosa, like Ilha Deserta, Ilha do Farol, and Ilha da Culatra. It costs around two euros each way.

Each island has long stretches of golden sand, gentle waves, and hardly any crowds, but remember this is the Atlantic Ocean, so it's cold even in summer. On my autumn trip to Faro, the beach wasn't the place for me. Regardless of the weather, it’s hard to believe this untouched paradise is just a short boat ride from the Faro city centre.

You can take a boat tour that allows you to hop on and off at three of the islands in Faro (Ilha Deserta, Ilha do Farol, and Ilha da Culatra). If you are comfortable exploring and swimming, this tour will be a good fit for you. This tour includes 4 Stops and 3 Islands in the Ria Formosa Catamaran Tour.

Boats moored in the Rio Formosa National Park.
One of the Faro islands that can be reached by boat.

Where to eat and drink in Faro: From rooftop cocktails to local flavours

Best for Luxury Dining - Forno Negro

Food in Faro is incredible — fresh, affordable, and full of surprises. I stayed at the 3HB Faro Hotel for a week and ate at its restaurant, Forno Negro, five times. That’s how good it was. I can confidently say Forno Negro is the best restaurant in Faro and welcomes non-residents. Their red wine sangria is some of the best I’ve had in Portugal, and don’t miss a warm pastel de nata at breakfast, the best I tasted in Faro.

Best for cocktails and tapas - Columbus Bar

Another favourite was Columbus Bar, a funky restaurant and cocktail spot by the Arco da Vila. I highly recommend their burrito salad with pumpkin jam, cod croquettes, and the divine ricotta candy dessert. A glass of Vinho Verde is just €5, and a cold beer is only €2. That's proof that good food in Faro doesn’t have to break the bank. We found their food so delicious that we ate there several times.

Best for speciality coffee - Yellow Bourbon Roastery or Melbourne Lane Café

For coffee lovers, head to Yellow Bourbon Roastery or Melbourne Lane Café. They both serve excellent coffee and are great for a lazy morning watching the world go by. Melbourne Lane also offers Aussie-inspired breakfast options, such as avocado and feta on toast.

Street Art in Faro

Faro’s street art scene is vibrant. I hadn't thought that it would make it onto my list of Europe's best street art cities, so I was delighted to find murals tucked away down alleyways, in Faro's historic Old Town and by the harbour.

A wall filled with indivdual pieces of street art in Faro.
Faro's old town had several pieces of street art.
The side of a house is painted with images pf people in bright colours in Faro.
Spoonbill painted on the side of a wooden cabin in Faro.
Mural of a spoonbill.

One mural painted by Daniel Eime, on the side of a house near Faro Cathedral, depicts Zeca Fonso. He was a musician and, notably, composed a song that would serve as the signal (broadcast by the national radio channel) for the start of the Carnation Revolution in April 1974 - a significant military event in Portugal's history.

Mural of a man wearing glasses painted on the side of a house in Faro.
Mural of Zeca Fonso.
A mural in black and white of a fisherman with his son and daughter by a wooden fishing boat.
Black-and-white mural of a fisherman and his son and daughter on Rua Do Compromisso.

Seeing Faro’s Mosaics and Architecture

Faro's shopping area was also an unexpected delight with tiled pavements and buildings with colourful mosaic-covered exteriors. I had fun simply photographing the different tiles. Everywhere I looked, there was colour, pattern, and history woven into the streets.

Angie stands looking down at her feet on the mosaic patterned streets of Faro.

Faro has some interesting buildings, from the Bank of Portugal to the Palácio Belmarço - but be prepared for other buildings that are much more run-down. I love this architectural mix in a city, historic and pristine, meets modern and rough around the edges. It's authentic and not trying to be something it isn't.

A row of run down houses in Faro.
Low level terraced house in Faro.
Tiles feature on the fronts of many buildings in Faro.

Shopping in Faro

It was also enjoyable to visit local shops selling traditional pottery and handicrafts. They weren't the usual tacky souvenir shops you find in some places; these sold high-quality items, so I picked up a few items.

One shop geared toward tourists in Faro is Comur, on Rua Dom Francisco Gomes. It is a sardine shop where each tin lining its many shelves is brightly coloured and marked with a different year — perfect as a souvenir or birthday gift.

I can't imagine they sell much because every time we passed, it was empty. All the same, it's interesting to see, and there must be a demand for these tinned sardines from somewhere!

Sunset Rooftop Bars in Faro

I witnessed stunning sunsets in Faro, and what better place to enjoy them than a rooftop bar?

For the best sunset views and cocktails, head to the 3HB Faro Rooftop Bar (perfect for me, as I was staying there) or the Eva Senses Hotel Bar, which offers panoramic views across the marina and Ria Formosa. A chilled glass of rosé on a rooftop bar? Yes, please, it's one of the best things to do in Faro at night.

Rooftop views from my hotel, 3HB Faro.
Sunset views over the sea in Faro.

Day Trips from Faro: Tavira and Olhão

One of the reasons Faro makes such a great base is its easy train connections. Faro train station is a 5-minute walk from the marina.

I had wanted to visit three other Algarve towns during my week in Faro, but I ended up travelling only to Tavira and Olhao. The train journey to Lagos was longer than I had planned (1 hour and 40 minutes). And, while many choose Lagos for its iconic cliff formations, Faro offers a more authentic, less crowded Portuguese experience.

Tavira is just 40 minutes by train (€7 return). It's a postcard-perfect town of bridges, tiled houses, and riverside bars and restaurants.

Angie standing an ornate railing beside the river in Tavira, Portugal.
A sunny November day in Tavira.

Olhão is 15 minutes away (€3.20 return). It has a few pieces of street art, a lively promenade, and boat trips to Ilha da Armona and Ilha da Culatra.

Angie leaning against a wall with a giant black and white mural of a horse and cart in Olhao, Portugal.
Huge black and white murals of past trades line the walls of a quiet backstreet in Olhao.

These two travel destinations offer memorable day trips that, like Faro, showcase a quieter side of the Algarve.

Faro in November: What to Expect

I wasn't expecting such great autumn weather in Faro. I had packed my rain mac, jumper, and jeans, and even though my swimsuit made it into my suitcase, I never imagined I would have a chance to wear it. How wrong was I?

The sky was clear most days, with temperatures around 20 degrees all week. That meant we had three mornings when we relaxed on the decking by the rooftop pool and enjoyed feeling the last of the autumn sunshine on our skin. While the water is cold, the 20-degree sunshine makes it a perfect escape from the UK/US winter.

Autumn days are short in Portugal; sunset was at 5.30 pm, so we made sure to get up early to enjoy the attractions in Faro and beyond. If you are looking for an autumn getaway, Portugal is the perfect destination.

Bear in mind that there is usually more rainfall at this time of year, and thankfully, it didn't fall on us until the last morning, when an almighty storm rolled in. We were heading home, and luckily it didn't affect our holiday to Faro.

Angie holding a wine glass and sitting on a rooftop terrace in Faro.
It was great to enjoy my wine in the sunshine in November.
Angie in the rooftop pool at the 3HB Faro Hotel.
The water was freezing, but once in, I got used to it.
Angie wearing a multicoloured dress stands in a narrow street in Faro.
It was lovely and warm in Faro in November.

Final Thoughts: Why Faro is the Algarve’s Best Kept Secret

After travelling in Europe for the past 40 years, I didn't think there were many destinations left that would surprise me, but Faro did just that.

In three days, I had explored most of its main sights, but staying for one week allowed me to slow down, soak up the sunshine, and use the city as a base for exploring the Algarve’s nearby towns.

With its historic old town, bird-filled lagoons, fantastic food, and relaxed pace, Faro is the perfect year-round city break — but especially in autumn or winter when the crowds have gone, and the sun still shines. I, for one, am glad I gave Faro the chance to show me it is much more than just a gateway to the Algarve's beach resorts and is an authentic Portuguese travel destination in its own right.

It also helped that the hotel I was staying in, the 3HB Faro, was excellent. From the room size and amenities to the rooftop pool and terrace, the indoor pool and spa, the staff, and the mouthwatering food, everything was of the highest quality.

My room at the 3HB Faro Hotel.
Rooftop infinity pool at 3HB Faro Hotel.
Rooftop pool at 3HB Faro Hotel.
Rooftop terrace at 3HB Faro Hotel.
Rooftop Terrace at 3HB Faro Hotel.

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