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Visit Bayon – The Smiling Face Temple in Cambodia

Step Inside Bayon Temple in Angkor Thom, Cambodia

Nestled deep in the walled city of Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple is a phenomenal sight to behold as you approach the two hundred enigmatic smiling stone faces that look down upon you.

For my adult son and me, this was one of those moments that would be hard to beat on our trip to Cambodia, and this mystical structure had us fixed to the spot with our mouths wide open in utter amazement.

I had wanted to visit the Angkor Thom temple complex since seeing the Cambodian temples of Bayon, and Ta Prohm featured in the Lara Croft “Tomb Raider” films many years ago. Finally, on a hot and humid day in April, my dream became a reality.

We arranged to tour Angkor by ourselves using a tuk-tuk as our transport, and it worked out perfectly. Of course, if you want a physical guide to take you around, you can book temple tours online or through your hotel.

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Bayon Temple Secrets Unlocked

Bayon is 800 years old and was the official royal temple of the Mahayana Buddhist King Jayavarman VII.

Before this Khmer ruler came to power, Cambodia was a Hindu country, but once on the throne, he made Buddhism the predominant religion.

No one has the definitive answer of who or what the stone faces may represent. Still, archaeologists believe they are likely to be Lokesvara, the Buddhist God of compassion, the four-headed Brahma, the Hindu God of Creation, or even King Jayavarman VII.

The King was very busy over a short period building other temples in the royal city of Angkor Thom, including Ta Prohm, in honour of his mother and Preah Khan in recognition of his father.

As time went by, Jayavarman VIII became ruler and returned Hindusim to Cambodia. Hinduism is now worshipped alongside Buddhism, and Bayon had scenes indicative of the Hindu religion added to its walls.

Whatever the religion and whoever the serene, smiling faces represent, they are entirely magical and seem to follow you around this jungle temple complex.

Bayon Temple Cambodia

Nowadays, many of the original towers of this unique Cambodian UNESCO world heritage site have gone, crumbling without trace into the surrounding jungle and becoming ruins reclaimed by Mother Nature.

Nevertheless, there are still fifty-plus towers intact, all clearly featuring the four sides of the Bayon face pointing towards the directions of a compass and keeping a watchful eye over the once royal capital city of Angkor Thom.

Wander Around Bayon Temple

Time spent in Bayon – 60 minutes

Once inside Bayon Temple, the labyrinth of walkways and chambers in the inner gallery makes you feel like you have stepped back in time.

Throughout the temple, numerous bas-relief wall carvings show scenes of everyday life, festivals and mythical Buddist and Hindu spirit figures. You will see these carvings all around the Angkor Archeological Park.

And as Bayon is on several levels, wooden ladders give you the chance to ascend closer to the smiling face towers. The closer you get to them, the more mesmerising they will seem; but be careful of your footing!

As we wandered through the complex, we saw several shrines and decorated statues with offerings and incense laid out in front of them. It is lovely that the Cambodian people still come and worship at Bayon.

Sunset at Bayon Temple

We visited Bayon in the late afternoon, and by doing this, the tourist coaches were long gone. Our tuk-tuk driver said we had done the right thing as the mornings are so busy that visitors can lose the full beauty and tranquillity of the temples.

Bayon Temple closes at 5.30 pm, and we stayed inside until the very end. And even now, as I am writing this, I can remember how magical that time was. The glimpse of the sun setting through the trees and the sound of the evening birdsong was something so special.

Boy in Bayon Temple

Walking away from Bayon, we turned to look back one last time at those smiling faces and felt so incredibly lucky to have had this bucket list experience in Cambodia. My son looked at me and said that it had been one of his best Cambodian travel experiences, and guess what, it was most definitely one of mine.

Bayon Temple at sunset

And of the four Cambodian temples we visited during our travels in Cambodia, including the formidable Angkor Wat, the Bayon temple stole our hearts and claimed its place as our favourite temple in Cambodia.

Crossing the Angkor Thom Bridge

Back in our tuk-tuk, we stopped at the entry/exit bridge to Angkor Thom to take some sunset photographs featuring the guardian deities of the bridge.

To the right are asuras (demons), and to the left are devas (gods), all with expressive faces, similar to the Bayon temple structures.

Most of the heads and bodies are originals, but some are reconstructions of those damaged or stolen during the 1985 Vietnam/Cambodia war. Our tuk-tuk driver told us the guerillas would come along and chop the heads off the statues and throw them into the water or trade them on the black market to private collectors.

Sunset over river Angkor Thom
Entry Bridge to Angkor Thom

The bridge was fascinating and the perfect place to end our first day at the Angkor Archaeological Park before heading back to our hotel in Siem Reap.

Follow me on my Cambodian Temple Journey to discover

Ta Prohm The Tree Root Temple and Ta NeiThe Hidden Jungle Temple

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About Author

Angela Price

Angie is a full-time travel writer with over 30 years of travel experience. She has always had a passion for travel, and after a 3-month world trip with her 18-year-old son, she created her popular travel blog to share her adventures with a wider audience. When Angie is at home in the UK, she enjoys exploring the English countryside, visiting castles and gardens and planning her next big adventure. Her motto is "Live Life Wandering not Wondering".

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